City Making and Global Labor Regimes Chinese Immigrants and Italy's

This book investigates the success story of the fast fashion industry—mainly owned by Chinese migrants—in Prato, Italy. It outlines how Prato has become the center of a value chain stretching from suppliers in China and Turkey all the way to buyers in Eur

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City Making and Global Labor Regimes

Antonella Ceccagno

City Making and Global Labor Regimes Chinese Immigrants and Italy’s Fast Fashion Industry

Antonella Ceccagno University of Bologna Bologna, Italy

ISBN 978-3-319-59980-9    ISBN 978-3-319-59981-6 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-59981-6 Library of Congress Control Number: 2017946018 © The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s) 2017 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Cover Photo © Paolo_Toffanin / GettyImages. Cover design by Samantha Johnson Printed on acid-free paper This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by Springer Nature The registered company is Springer International Publishing AG The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland

To Birbi, Nea, and Lea (in order of appearance) and to the memory of my friend Renato

Acknowledgments

This book would never have come into being without the uncountable number of unstructured conversations I have had with Chinese migrants, some of whom are now my friends. I thank them all. I am grateful to Ayse Çağlar for helping me make sense of my l­ong-­ term working experience in Prato and transforming it into a book that connects different scales and actors. Thanks to Sandro Mezzadra and Biao Xiang for reading the manuscript and offering precious comments. Thanks to Inge and Tony for making me feel at home in their beautiful house over the Alte Donau. My profound gratitude goes to my family that has supported my efforts during all these years with love, patience, and encouragement.

vii

Contents

1 Introduction   1 1.1 Prologue  1 1.2 Issues: Prato and Its Migrants in a Changing World  1 1.3 Conceptual Frameworks  6 1.4 Critique of the Empiricist Approach to Fieldwork 17 1.5 A Unique Field 19 1.6 Constructing Commonalities: My Positionality as a Researcher and a Ser