No One Eats Alone Food as a Social Enterprise

In today’s fast-paced, fast food world, everyone seems to be eating alone, all the time—whether it’s at their desks or in the car. Even those who find time for a family meal are cut off from the people who grew, harvested, distributed, marketed, and sold

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No One Eats Alone

No One Eats Alone FOOD AS A SOCIAL ENTERPRISE

Michael S. Carolan

Washington | Covelo | London

Copyright © 2017 Michael S. Carolan All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means without permission in writing from the publisher: Island Press, 2000 M Street, NW, Suite 650, Washington, DC 20036. ISLAND PRESS is a trademark of the Center for Resource Economics. Library of Congress Control Number: 2016952383 Printed on recycled, acid-free paper Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Keywords: food justice, sustainable agriculture, farmworkers, CSA (community supported agriculture), farmers market, food hub, farm-to-table, nose-to-tail, nutrition guidelines, soda tax

Table of Contents Acknowledgments  ix Introduction: Changing the Foodscape  1 Chapter 1. Monocultures of the Mind and Body  7 Chapter 2. Knowing Quality  27 Chapter 3. Shaping Values  45 Chapter 4. Spatial Distance versus Social Distance  61 Chapter 5. One Health  75 Chapter 6. From Slow Food to Connectivity  95 Chapter 7. Buying Behaviors versus Building Community  109 Chapter 8. Getting Big versus Getting Together  123 Chapter 9. Becoming Citizens  139 Notes  153 Index  167

Acknowledgments

No One Eats Alone was years in the making. When you work on something that long, especially on a project that takes you around the world, you become reluctant to take sole credit for what’s really the product of a collaborative process. My name might appear on the book’s cover and spine, but many people made this book possible. Here are a few of those others who helped make this book what it is. If you enjoy the book, applaud them also. If you don’t, blame me and me alone. Bruce Wexler. Author and father-in-law extraordinaire. His encouragement and support early on taught me the art—boy, is it ever—of writing a proposal. Emily Davis. What can I say? “Thanks!” just isn’t enough. Emily has given me hope about the future of the publishing industry. Emily, my editor, still edits. But even more than that: she helped craft sentences, even a few entire paragraphs. No One Eats Alone would not exist were it not for her; not as an Island Press book, anyway, and certainly not in the form it has taken. She has been a steadfast supporter of this project who refused to let it die. I am forever grateful. James Hale. My graduate student and the person with whom I talk ix



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acknowledgments

critical food scholarship more than with any other. Many of my ideas have been shaped by those discussions. Mike Fleming. My copyeditor and the person who found a way to balance my desire to maintain a conversational narrative with the need to follow the by-the-