Of Tripod and Palate Food, Politics, and Religion in Traditional Chi

Attitudes toward food and commensality constituted a central fiber in the social, religious, and political fabric of ancient Chinese society. The offering of sacrifices, the banqueting of guests, and the ritual preparation, prohibition or consumption of f

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Of Tripod and Palate Food, Politics, and Religion in Traditional China

Edited by

Roel Sterckx

OF TRIPOD AND PALATE

© Roel Sterckx, 2005. Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 2005 978-1-4039-6337-6

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. First published in 2005 by PALGRAVE MACMILLAN™ 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10010 and Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire, England RG21 6XS Companies and representatives throughout the world. PALGRAVE MACMILLAN is the global academic imprint of the Palgrave Macmillan division of St. Martin’s Press, LLC and of Palgrave Macmillan Ltd. Macmillan® is a registered trademark in the United States, United Kingdom and other countries. Palgrave is a registered trademark in the European Union and other countries. ISBN 978-1-349-52746-5 DOI 10.1057/9781403979278

ISBN 978-1-4039-7927-8 (eBook)

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Conference on Food and Religion in Traditional China (2004 : Cambridge, England). Of tripod and palate : food, politics, and religion in traditional China / edited by Roel Sterckx. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. 1. Food habits—China—History—Congresses. 2. Food—Political aspects—China—Congresses. 3. Food—Religious aspects—China—Congresses. I. Title: Food, politics and religion in traditional China. II. Sterckx, Roel, 1969– III. Title. GT2853.C6C66 2004 394.1⬘2⬘0951—dc22 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Design by Newgen Imaging Systems (P) Ltd., Chennai, India. First edition: October 2005 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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C O N T E N T S

Acknowledgments Introduction Roel Sterckx One

Moonshine and Millet: Feasting and Purification Rituals in Ancient China Constance A. Cook

vii 1

9

Two

Food and Philosophy in Early China Roel Sterckx

Three

When Princes Awake in Kitchens: Zhuangzi’s Rewriting of a Culinary Myth Romain Graziani

62

The Offering of Food and the Creation of Order: The Practice of Sacrifice in Early China Michael Puett

75

Four

34

Five

Eating Better than Gods and Ancestors Robert F. Campany

Six

A Taste of Happiness: Contextualizing Elixirs in Baopuzi Poo Mu-chou

123

Feasting Without the Victuals:The Evolution of the Daoist Communal Kitchen Terry F. Kleeman

140

Pleasure, Prohibition, and Pain: Food and Medicine in Traditional China Vivienne Lo

163

Seven

Eight

96

vi

Contents

Nine

Buddhist Vegetarianism in China John Kieschnick

186

Ten

Buddhism,Alcohol, and Tea in Medieval China James A. Benn

213

Eleven The Beef Taboo and the Sacrificial Structure of Late Imperial Chinese Society Vincent Goossaert

237

About the Contributors

249

Index

251

AC KN OWL EDG M E N TS

Contributions to this book were presented, in various stages of gestation, at the conference “Food and Religion in Traditional China,” hosted by the East Asia Institute and the