Incompressible SPH simulation of solitary wave propagation on permeable beaches

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Incompressible SPH simulation of solitary wave propagation on permeable beaches * Chiaki Tsurudome1, Dongfang Liang1, Yuma Shimizu2, Abbas Khayyer2, Hitoshi Gotoh2 1. Department of Engineering, University of Cambridge, Trumpington Street, Cambridge, UK 2. Graduate School of Engineering, Kyoto University, Kyoto, Japan (Received May 30, 2020, Revised July 13, 2020, Accepted July 14, 2020, Published online August 6, 2020) ©China Ship Scientific Research Center 2020 Abstract: Wave propagation on uniformly sloped beaches is a canonical coastal engineering topic that has been studied extensively in the past few decades. However, most of these studies treat beaches as solid boundaries even though they are often made of porous materials, such as sediment and vegetation. Permeable beaches struck by tsunami-like waves have not been adequately investigated. It is expected that the degree of permeability plays a crucial role in mitigating the impact of the wave. This study examines solitary wave run-ups on sandy beaches using an incompressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics (ISPH) model. The permeability of the beach is considered to be directly related to the diameter of its constituent sand particles. To obtain a satisfactory pressure field, which cannot be achieved using the original ISPH algorithm, the source term of the pressure Poisson equation has been modified based on a higher-order source-term expression. Flows within the porous medium are computed in the same framework as those outside the porous medium. In the current model, no transition zone is needed at the boundary of the porous structure. The wave-attenuation effect of the porous medium is discussed, with a particular focus on the relationship between the run-up height and grainsize. Key words: Solitary wave, porosity, incompressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics (ISPH), run-up

Introduction  With populations and economic activities continuing to be concentrated in coastal areas, it is increasingly important to protect coastal infrastructure from wave impact and inundation during extreme events, which are expected to occur more frequently. Coastal hazards, such as hurricanes, typhoons, storm surges and tsunamis, are often accompanied by great run-up heights, leading to the inundation of the coastal areas. One of the most catastrophic recent events was the Sumatra Tsunami. An earthquake of Mw 9.3 struck Sumatra on 26 December 2004, which caused massive tsunamis[1] in the region. These tsunamis hit Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar, Bangladesh, India, Sri Lanka, Maldives and several African countries, and the total number of dead and missing was over 226 000. Another extraordinary event was Hurricane Katrina. In August 2005, extremely high waves and storm surge caused flooding and devastating loss of life throughout the * Biography: Chiaki Tsurudome (1991-), Female, Ph. D., E-mail: [email protected] Corresponding author: Dongfang Liang, E-mail: [email protected]

southern part of Louisiana and Mississippi[2]. Inundation was particularly severe in the