Potential of Ligno-cellulosic and Protein Fibres in Sustainable Fashion

Fashion can be encapsulated as the prevailing styles manifested by human behaviour and the latest creations by the designers of textile and clothing, footwear, body piercing, decor, etc. Fashion can trace its history to the Middle East (i.e., Persia, Turk

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Abstract Fashion can be encapsulated as the prevailing styles manifested by human behaviour and the latest creations by the designers of textile and clothing, footwear, body piercing, decor, etc. Fashion can trace its history to the Middle East (i.e., Persia, Turkey, India and China). Natural fibres such as silk, wool, cotton, linen, jute and ramie (a flowering plant in the nettle family) and man-made fibres such as regenerated rayon, cellulose acetate, polyester, acrylic, bamboo, and soy protein are intensively used for the production of traditional to specialty apparel, home furnishings and interior decorative textiles. To prepare fibres for use they are enhanced during spinning, weaving, knitting and chemical processing. Linen/flax is considered the most important and useful natural fibre as far as fashion is concerned for tops, shirts and summer dresses. Recently (as of 2016), a few more protein fibres —such as angora, pashmina and yak—have also been exploited to produce luxurious fashionable textiles, owing to their exotic features. Natural fibre–based textiles are being increasingly dyed in a sustainable manner using eco-friendly natural dyes that are fixed by using bio-mordants (plants that accumulate alum in their leaves). Similarly, the potential naturally coloured cotton has for traditional to fashionable end applications is also highlighted in this chapter. As far as sustainable development is concerned, textiles are preferred to be made of natural fibres and to be value-added with eco-friendly chemicals and auxiliaries, preferably derived from natural resources such as plant/herbal extracts, bio-materials, bio-polymers and bio-molecules.

K.K. Samanta (&) Chemical and Bio-Chemical Processing Division, ICAR-National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology, Kolkata 700040, India e-mail: [email protected] S. Basak  S.K. Chattopadhyay Chemical and Biochemical Processing Division, ICAR-Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology, Mumbai 400019, India © Springer Science+Business Media Singapore 2016 S.S. Muthu and M.A. Gardetti (eds.), Sustainable Fibres for Fashion Industry, Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes, DOI 10.1007/978-981-10-0566-4_5

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1 Introduction Clothing is essential for human beings and has a long history of use (over 7000 years). Fibres such as marijuana, hemp, paul and bamboo have been reported as having been used for such a purpose. Prehistoric peoples created their own culture, which has continued to evolve and develop right up to today (2016). As far as basic raw materials of the eco-fashion industry are concerned, natural fibres are key to growth of its sustainability. Natural fibres—such as silk, wool, cotton, linen and jute—and man-made fibres—such as regenerated rayon, cellulose acetate, polyester and acrylic—are used in the production of traditional to specialty apparel, home and interior decor textiles by giving them added value during fibre spinning, weaving, knitting, non-woven production and chemical