Fibre attributes and mapping the cultivar influence of different industrial cellulosic crops (cotton, hemp, flax, and ca
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REVIEW
Fibre attributes and mapping the cultivar influence of different industrial cellulosic crops (cotton, hemp, flax, and canola) on textile properties Ikra Iftekhar Shuvo*
Abstract Natural lignocellulosic fibres (NLF) extracted from different industrial crops (like cotton, hemp, flax, and canola) have taken a growing share of the overall global use of natural fibres required for manufacturing consumer apparels and textile substrate. The attributes of these constituent NLF determine the end product (textiles) performance and function. Structural and microscopic studies have highlighted the key behaviors of these NLF and understanding these behaviors is essential to regulate their industrial production, engineering applications, and harness their benefits. Breakthrough scientific successes have demonstrated textile fibre properties and significantly different mechanical and structural behavioral patterns related to different cultivars of NLF, but a broader agenda is needed to study these behaviors. Influence of key fibre attributes of NLF and properties of different cultivars on the performance of textiles are defined in this review. A likelihood analysis using scattergram and Pearson’s correlation followed by a two-dimensional principal component analysis (PCA) to single-out key properties explain the variations and investigate the probabilities of any cluster of similar fibre profiles. Finally, a Weibull distribution determined probabilistic breaking tenacities of different fibres after statistical analysis of more than 60 (N > 60) cultivars of cotton, canola, flax, and hemp fibres. Keywords: Cellulose, Industrial crops, Cultivar, Textile, Fibre property Introduction Not all natural fibres can be considered as textile fibres. A textile fibre must possess a few mandatory key properties, such as fibrous structure, spinnability, strength, fineness, dyeability, and the ability to react with acid or alkali (Klein 2016; Trotman 1984; Saville 1999; Booth 1968; Morton and Hearle 2008). The quality of a natural lignocellulosic fibre (NLF) extracted from different industrial crops fibre may vary due to the intrinsic variabilities of its natural components such as fibrous nature, fibre morphology, cellulosic, and non-cellulosic content (Rowell et al. 2000; Bonatti et al. 2004). Examples of such NLF are cotton (Gossypium hirsutum), jute (Corchorus *Correspondence: [email protected] University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
capsularis), hemp (Cannabis sativa L.), flax (Linium usitatissimum L.), ramie (Boehmeria nivea), cattail (Typha latifolia), and so on (Bergfjord and Bodil, 2010; Kozlowski 2012a) that vary from each other in terms of cellulosic content as well as in many physical and chemical properties. A new generation of lignocellulosic textile grade bast fibre has been recently developed by Sevenhuysen and Rahman (2016), which is canola (Brassica napus L.). A separate research work also revealed that canola is even light-weight compared to other available commercial textile fibres like jute, flax, he
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