The Aegean Sea: Wind Waves and Tides
The wind waves and the periodic elevation and fall of the sea surface in coastal areas, i.e. the tides, are the first manifestations of ocean behaviour that mankind ever observed. Thousands of years ago, Aristotle at the Euripus Strait in the city of Halk
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Contents 1 Introduction 2 Hindcast Wave Data 3 Wave Climate of the Aegean and Adjacent Seas 4 Aegean Tides 5 Conclusions References
Abstract The wind waves and the periodic elevation and fall of the sea surface in coastal areas, i.e. the tides, are the first manifestations of ocean behaviour that mankind ever observed. Thousands of years ago, Aristotle at the Euripus Strait in the city of Halkis and the nearby shoreline tried to understand why the sea was flooding onto the land and then receding away from it revealing the coastline stretches of sea bottom, known to us as the ‘intertidal zone’, that hours ago were flooded with sea water. As ocean science progressed, various aspects of the oceanic environment came into light regarding physical, chemical, biological and geological characteristics of the sea water. However, wind waves and tides are basic oceanic phenomena that exert a lot of influence on issues related to human activities in the
T. Soukissian (*) and H. Kontoyiannis Institute of Oceanography, Hellenic Centre for Marine Research (HCMR), Anavyssos, Greece e-mail: [email protected]; [email protected] F. Karathanasi Institute of Oceanography, Hellenic Centre for Marine Research (HCMR), Anavyssos, Greece School of Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Athens, Greece e-mail: [email protected]; fl[email protected] K. Belibassakis School of Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Athens, Greece e-mail: kbel@fluid.mech.ntua.gr Christos L. Anagnostou, Andrey G. Kostianoy, Ilias D. Mariolakos, Panayotis Panayotidis, Marina Soilemezidou, and Grigoris Tsaltas (eds.), The Aegean Sea Environment: The Natural System, Hdb Env Chem, DOI 10.1007/698_2020_658, © Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2020
T. Soukissian et al.
ocean and particularly at the coastal areas. This chapter presents elements of our upto-date knowledge on wind waves and tides in the Aegean Sea. Keywords Aegean Sea, Annual/seasonal patterns, Cretan straits, Cross-sectional flows, Currents, Etesians, Euripus Strait, Hindcast data, Tides, Variability, Wave climate analysis, Wave modelling, Wind waves
1 Introduction The generation and propagation of sea surface waves is one of the most complex phenomena in the sea environment. The foundations of the modern wind wave modelling can be found in [1, 2] (that was initially published in 1955) and [3, 4, 5]. The creation mechanism for wind waves involves the effects of surface friction between wind and sea surface layer that transfers energy to the water through wind stress. Regarding the exact physical mechanisms of wind wave generation, development and decaying, it is generally accepted that in the initial phase of wave generation, the fluctuations of atmospheric pressure induce very small amplitude waves, called capillary waves. As prevailing wind conditions persist longer and wind speed increases, waves develop and gravity forces support the wave motion (wind waves are gravity waves generated by wind). However, wave growth is finite s
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