Numerical Modeling of Sea Waves
Presenting a novel approach to wave theory, this book applies mathematical modeling to the investigation of sea waves. It presents problems, solutions and methods, and explores issues such as statistical properties of sea waves, generation of turbulence,
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Numerical Modeling of Sea Waves
Numerical Modeling of Sea Waves
Dmitry V. Chalikov
Numerical Modeling of Sea Waves
123
Dmitry V. Chalikov P.P. Shirshov Institute of Oceanography Russian Academy of Sciences Saint-Petersburg Russia
ISBN 978-3-319-32914-7 DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-32916-1
ISBN 978-3-319-32916-1
(eBook)
Library of Congress Control Number: 2016942526 © Springer International Publishing Switzerland 2016 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. Printed on acid-free paper This Springer imprint is published by Springer Nature The registered company is Springer International Publishing AG Switzerland
To my wife Olga
Preface
The work on sea wave problem I started many years ago when I had graduated from the university. It was the time when all specialists in the earth sciences were impressed by the progress in application of computers in the geophysical fluid dynamics and, particularly, by a great success in the numerical modeling of three-dimensional atmosphere launched by Prof. Josef Smagorinsky. Being not quite well prepared for a purely analytical investigation, I felt a strong doubt about such methods since I believed that all the results obtained analytically are based on severe simplifications; therefore, they cannot be a perfect reflection of nature (my present feeling is about the same). This is why the author of this book began to meditate on the possible application of the computer modeling for sea waves. The problem of boundary layer was more familiar to me, so the first series of works was devoted to a wind–wave interaction problem. The work on mathematical modeling of sea waves was started in the 1970s, when a model for investigation of wind– wave interaction was completed. Actually, it was an attempt to construct a coupled windwave model, but the wave counterpart (despite the fact that it was based on the full equations) was able to generate only monochromatic linear waves. I was inspired by the publication of my first paper on this topic by
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