Dye Application, Manufacture of Dye Intermediates and Dyes
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INTRODUCTION
*Ciba Professor of Dyestuff Chemistry, College of Textiles, North Carolina State University. **Professor of Textile Engineering, College of Textiles, North Carolina State University.
ensuing centuries. The ancient Egyptians wove linen as early as 5000 B.C., and paintings on tomb walls infer that colored wall hangings were in use by 3000 B.C. By 2500 B.C., dyer's thistle and saffiower were used to produce red and yellow shades. Egyptian dyers developed a full range of colors by 1450 B.C. Another cradle of civilization was the Indian subcontinent where religious and social records dating to 2500 B.c. refer to dyed silk and woven brocades of dyed yarn. Cotton, first cultivated in the Indus valley of Pakistan was woven as early as 2000 B.C. A book written about 300 B.c. included a chapter on dyes. It is believed that systematic dyeing occurred in China as early as 3000 B.C. near the city of Xian in the Hoang (Yellow) River Valley, although there is no conclusive proof. Empress Si-Ling-Chi is credited with the discovery of silk about 2640 B.c. Kermes and indigo were used as dyes as early as 2000 B.c. Fragments of silk have been found in the corrosive patina of bronze swords of the Shang dynasty (1523-1027 B.c.), but most assuredly these samples are not the oldest. 1
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Riegel s Handbook of fndustrial Chemistry, 1Oth Edition Edited by Kent. Kluwer Academic/Plenum Publishers, New York 2003
Dyeing
It is difficult if not impossible to determine
when mankind first systematically applied color to a textile substrate. The first colored fabrics were probably nonwoven felts painted in imitation of animal skins. The first dyeings were probably actually little more than stains from the juice of berries. Ancient Greek writers described painted fabrics worn by the tribes of Asia Minor. But just where did the ancient craft have its origins? Was there one original birthplace or were there a number of simultaneous beginnings around the world? While it is difficult to determine just when each respective civilization began to use dyes, it is possible to date textile fragments and temple paintings, which have survived the
MANUFACTURE OF DYE INTERMEDIATES AND DYES
The New World was similarly active in developing the textile art. With help from the desert climate in the high Andes ofPeru, dyed samples of wool have been preserved and recovered from burial sites. These fragments have been dated to the millennium before the Christian era. The western and southwestern regions of the United States provided homes for the Anasazi, or ancient ones, who dwelt in the region of Mesa Verde National Park in southwestern Colorado, northern Arizona and New Mexico, and eastern Utah. Again the dry climate has helped to preserve samples from these early civilizations. Very little in the nature, oflarge, intact textile samples have survived in Europe. Remains of a large woolen robe, the Thorsberg Robe, found in northern Germany and dated prior to 750 B.C. indicate a highly developed dyeing and weaving technology. 2 Indirect evidence is
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