Dyeing of Cotton Fabric with Natural Dyes without Mordant Usage Part I: Determining the Most Suitable Dye Plants for Dye
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ISSN 1229-9197 (print version) ISSN 1875-0052 (electronic version)
Dyeing of Cotton Fabric with Natural Dyes without Mordant Usage Part I: Determining the Most Suitable Dye Plants for Dyeing and UV Protective Functionalization Kaya Karabulut and Rıza Atav* Department of Textile Engineering, Namık Kemal University, Corlu-Tekirdag 59860, Turkey (Received July 16, 2019; Revised October 24, 2019; Accepted December 15, 2019) Abstract: Natural dyes are gaining importance in textile dyeing applications in recent years due to the fact many synthetic dyes are carcinogenic, mutagenic, and allergic. In this study, cotton knitted fabrics were dyed with extract solutions of 40 different dye plants without the mordant usage. Afterwards color efficiency and fastness values of dyed samples were evaluated. Dye plants that are able to give good color efficiency with sufficient fastness values were determined. According to the experimental results it can be said that for yellow color pomegranate peel and turmeric; for red color madder and quince; for blue color indigo; for green color myrobalan; for brown color white onion peel and catechu give the optimum results. Furthermore, it was tested whether ultraviolet protection effect could be obtained via dyeing with white onion peel or turmeric and it was found that both of these plants gave very good UV protection functionalization to cotton fabrics. Keywords: Cotton, Natural dye, Fastness, Ultraviolet protection
Nowadays chromium is in the red-list according to the ecoregulations and for this reason, it is important not to use chromium salts in order to achieve eco-friendly production in terms of both the dyed textile material and the discharged effluent. Although copper is also listed in the restricted category, permissible levels for copper ion are higher and therefore the permissible limit on dyed material will not be exceeded if it is used in small quantities [6]. On the other hand, there is no upper limit for aluminum, iron, and tin [4]. Tin is not limited by many eco-labels, but its presence in waste water is not desired from an environmental viewpoint [6]. Hence, it can be said that the use of aluminum and iron salts as a mordant is safe. However, their quantities should be optimized so as to minimize the pollution load [4]. But it is important to note that for a natural dyeing to be meaningful in terms of ecology, it should be avoided from the mordant usage. One of the disadvantages of mordant usage is that it is not possible to see the final color to be obtained until the addition of the mordant as mordants change the color via complex formation with natural dyes and color cannot be reversed due to the beginning of coordination bond formation after mordant is added. This situation reduces the reproducibility and is not welcomed in terms of dyeing [7]. One of the other disadvantages of mordants is that the chroming step causes significant fiber damage [5] and dyeing period is long due to the mordanting step, which increases the energy consumption of dyeing. When the literatur
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