Effect of Filament Configuration on Handle and Transmission Properties of Polyester Multifilament Fabrics
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ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTION
Effect of Filament Configuration on Handle and Transmission Properties of Polyester Multifilament Fabrics Mukesh Kumar Singh1
•
B. K. Behera2
Received: 3 April 2020 / Accepted: 14 October 2020 The Institution of Engineers (India) 2020
Abstract The configuration of constituent filaments in multifilament woven polyester fabrics plays very crucially to decide the low stress mechanical as well as transmission behaviour of shirting range fabrics. Intermingled, textured, and flat yarns (150/36/5, yarn of total denier 150, 36 filaments in that strand with 5 twist per meter) were used to produce different fabric samples. Twelve fabric samples using various combinations of warp and weft are manufactured with intermingled, textured, twisted, and flat configurations. Fabric samples were characterized to get low-stress mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-FB) and transmission behaviour was tested by Permetest, air permeability tester, and wickability tester. The presence of textured configured multifilament yarn exhibits high bending elasticity with lower bending hysteresis. The compression behaviour of fabric consists of intermingled warp and textured weft shows the highest compressibility or fullness. The intermingled configuration offers higher total hand value for winter applications with a different combination of weft threads. The highest wicking potential is achieved in case of intermingled warp and textured weft combinations. The moisture transmission rate remains highest with twisted warp twisted weft fabrics.
Electronic supplementary material The online version of this article (https://doi.org/10.1007/s40034-020-00184-z) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users. & Mukesh Kumar Singh [email protected] 1
Uttar Pradesh Textile Technology Institute, Kanpur 208001, India
2
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, New Delhi 110016, India
Keywords Residual extensibility Bending rigidity Linearity Total hand value
Introduction Yarns are the major constituents of fabrics and influence the fabric characteristics in multifold ways [10]. A large variety of yarns are used for fabric manufacturing, which can be classified into different categories based on types of yarn manufacturing technology, fibre used, and yarn structures. According to the types of fibres and their length, yarns are classified into two main classes: staple fibre yarns and continuous filament yarn. Continuous filament yarns are mostly produced from manmade filament yarns of polyester, nylon, and viscose. These multifilament yarns are used in a different manner during fabric manufacturing both in warp and weft ways to regulate crimp and other features of woven fabrics [1]. Multifilament warp yarns can be made weavable only by sizing, intermingling, and twisting. Among these, intermingling is the cheapest process and sizing of yarns is the costliest process [21]. Flat filaments are twisted together with different twist density and the n
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