Engineering Legitimacy How Institutional Entrepreneurs in E-Commerce
Through the lens of the fashion industry, Iva Petkova explores not only how institutionalized organizations react and adapt to the rise of start-up outsiders, but also how these outside “disruptors” seek to cultivate legitimacy and win influence
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Iva Petkova
Engineering Legitimacy How Institutional Entrepreneurs in E-Commerce Bring Fashion Companies into the Digital Age
Iva Petkova Ringling College of Art and Design Sarasota, FL, USA
ISBN 978-3-319-90706-2 ISBN 978-3-319-90707-9 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-90707-9 Library of Congress Control Number: 2018941870 © The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s) 2018 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Cover credit: Designed by Akihiro Nakayama Printed on acid-free paper This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer International Publishing AG part of Springer Nature The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland
In memory of my Grandmother, Rumi
Preface
This book arose as a subject of my long-term ethnography, hailing from Columbia University’s Sociology Department all the way to London, Milan, Paris, and back. I discovered the topic while walking the National Retail Federation’s Big Show at the Javits Center in New York in 2010. My main scholarly interest was rather clear: a fascination with empirical worlds at the threshold of technology, creative cultural industries, and entrepreneurship. My goal while there was to search for innovations and unique developments in technology and culture, particularly in fields surrounding the fashion industry. In my ethnography notes post-NRF, I had feverishly scribbled: “the most difficult times often spot innovation. Retailers and technology companies are embracing the need for new technology, new paradigms, new culture…” e-commerce was the big tech hike. But, while companies of every industry embraced the migration of their businesses and brands online, the numerous fashion company representatives I sought out, were not particularly in on this memo. Meetings featuring fashion professionals dis
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