Rogue Waves in the Ocean
“It came from nowhere, snapping giant ships in two. No one believed the survivors . . . until now” —New Scientist magazine cover, June 30, 2001 Rogue waves are the focus of this book. They are among the waves naturally - served by people on the sea surfac
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Christian Kharif · Efim Pelinovsky · Alexey Slunyaev
Rogue Waves in the Ocean
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Prof. Christian Kharif IRPHE Technopole de Chateau-Gombert 49 rue F. Joliot Curie 13384 Marseille BP 146 France [email protected]
Prof. Efim Pelinovsky Russian Academy of Sciences Inst. Appl. Physics Ul’yanov str. 46 Nizhny Novgorod Russia 603950 [email protected]
Dr. Alexey Slunyaev Russian Academy of Sciences Inst. Appl. Physics Ul’yanov str. 46 Nizhny Novgorod Russia 603950 [email protected]
ISBN: 978-3-540-88418-7
e-ISBN: 978-3-540-88419-4
Advances in Geophysical and Environmental Mechanics and Mathematics ISSN: 1866-8348
e-ISSN: 1866-8356
Library of Congress Control Number: 2008936876 c Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2009 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilm or in any other way, and storage in data banks. Duplication of this publication or parts thereof is permitted only under the provisions of the German Copyright Law of September 9, 1965, in its current version, and permission for use must always be obtained from Springer. Violations are liable to prosecution under the German Copyright Law. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. Cover Design: deblik, Berlin Printed on acid-free paper 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 springer.com
Preface
“It came from nowhere, snapping giant ships in two. No one believed the survivors . . . until now” —New Scientist magazine cover, June 30, 2001 Rogue waves are the focus of this book. They are among the waves naturally observed by people on the sea surface that represent an inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear from nowhere, cause danger, and disappear at once. They may occur on the surface of a relatively calm sea and not reach very high amplitudes, but still be fatal for ships and crew due to their unexpectedness and abnormal features. Seamen are known to be unsurpassed authors of exciting and horrifying stories about the sea and sea waves. This could explain why, despite the increasing number of documented cases, that sailors’ observations of “walls of water” have been considered fictitious for a while. These stories are now addressed again due to the amount of doubtless evidence of the existence of the phenomenon, but still without sufficient information to enable interested researchers and engineers to completely understand it. The billows appear suddenly, exceeding the surrounding waves by two times their size and more, and obtaining many names: abnormal, exceptional, extreme, giant, huge, sudden, episodic, freak, monster, rogue, vicious, killer, mad- or rabid-dog waves, cape rollers, holes in the sea, wall
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