Tea Production, Land Use Politics, and Ethnic Minorities Struggling

In this book, Po-Yi Hung uses tea production as a lens to investigate the tension between nature and society under the market economy in frontier China. By focusing on the landscape of the 'ancient tea forest' (guchalin), this book aims to understand the

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Tea Production, Land Use Politics, and Ethnic Minorities Struggling over Dilemmas in China’s Southwest Frontier

Po-Yi Hung

tea production, land use politics, and ethnic minorities Copyright © Po-Yi Hung, 2015.

Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 2015 978-1-137-49407-8 All rights reserved.

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First published in 2015 by PALGRAVE MACMILLAN in the United States—a division of St. Martin’s Press LLC, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010. Where this book is distributed in the UK, Europe and the rest of the world, this is by Palgrave Macmillan, a division of Macmillan Publishers Limited, registered in England, company number 785998, of Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 6XS. Palgrave Macmillan is the global academic imprint of the above companies and has companies and representatives throughout the world.

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Palgrave and Macmillan are registered trademarks in the United States, the United Kingdom, Europe and other countries.

ISBN 978-1-349-57364-6 ISBN 978-1-137-49408-5 (eBook) DOI 10.1057/9781137494085 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hung, Po-Yi, 1974– Tea production, land use politics, and ethnic minorities : struggling over dilemmas on China’s Southwest frontier / by Po-Yi Hung. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. 1. Cultural landscapes—China, Southwest. 2. Borderlands—China, Southwest. 3. Tea trade—China, Southwest. 4. Minorities—China, Southwest. 5. Land use—China, Southwest. I. Title. GF657.S68H86 2015 338.4'76639409513—dc23 2015004270 A catalogue record of the book is available from the British Library. Design by Amnet. First edition: August 2015 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

To my wife, Huai-Hsuan Chen, and my daughter, Madeleine Shen-Siang Hung

Contents

List of Figures

ix

Acknowledgments

xi

Introduction

1

1

Tea Production and Dilemmas on China’s Southwest Frontier

3

I

Harvesting

35

2

Property: Changes in the Ownership of the Ancient Tea Trees in Mangjing

37

II Processing 3 4

Quality: Suzhi and the Tea Entrepreneurs’ New Standards of Production for Ancient Tree Tea in Mangjing

73

Hierarchy: Tea Production and the Changing Social Order among Bulang Villagers in Mangjing

95

III Selling 5 6

115

Landscape: Restoration of the Missing Ancient Tea Forest in Mangjing

117

Ritual: The Renovation of Tea Ceremonies and Bulang Villagers’ Rearticulation of a Collective Ethnic Identity

133

Conclusion 7

71

Production of Tea, Reproduction of Dilemma, and Remaking of Place

163 165

viii



Contents

Notes

179

References

189

Index

199

List of Figures

1.1 Terrace tea gardens.

4

1.2

Ancient tea forest or ancient tea arboretum.

4

1.3

Map of Pu’er Prefecture (Pu’er City) of Yunnan.

6

2.1

A Bulang villager was plucking fresh tea leaves on the top of an ancient tea tree.

35

The mural on the outside wall of the Pia Ai Leng Temple.

60

2.2

3.1 Villagers were stir-frying tea leaves in a wok. 3.2

71

The plastic sack Bulang villagers typically used for packing fresh tea leaves.

78

4.1

Checking the authenticity of the ancient te