Wave-dominated, mesotidal headland-bay beach morphodynamic classsfications of the Shuidong Bay in South China
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Wave-dominated, mesotidal headland-bay beach morphodynamic classsfications of the Shuidong Bay in South China YU Jitao1, 2, DING Yuanting1, 2*, CHENG Huangxin3, CAI Lailiang1, CHEN Zishen4 1 School of Surveying and Land Information Engineering, Henan Polytechnic University, Jiaozuo 454000, China 2 School of Environmental Studies, China University of Geosciences, Wuhan 430074, China 3 Department of Landscape Architecture, China University of Geosciences, Wuhan 430074, China 4 Geography and Planning School, Sun Yat-sen University, Guangzhou 510275, China
Received 8 July 2015; accepted 15 October 2015 ©The Chinese Society of Oceanography and Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2016
Abstract
Beach morphodynamic classifications have achieved extensive acceptance in foreign coastal geomorphological studies. Three beaches located in different zones of a headland-bay coast are classified according to a dimensionless fall parameter, a relative tide range parameter and a dimensionless embayment scaling parameter. Synchronous data, including wave, tide, sediment and beach morphology, are respectively collected from the tangential beach, the transitional beach and the shadow beach of the Shuidong Bay during each spring tide for 16 successive months. The research results indicate that (1) the beach in the tangential zone falls between two major categories which are low tide terrace beaches with rips and barred beaches; the beach in the transitional zone exhibits two main types which are low tide bar/rip beaches and barred dissipative beaches; and the beach in the shadow zone mainly mirrors dissipative states with presence or absence of bars; and (2) the sequential changes and differences of beach states in different coastal zones reflect spatial and temporal variabilities of the headlandbay coast, totally meeting the actual measured beach morphology changes, showing that studies on wavedominated, meso-macrotidal beaches need to consider the influences of the tides. Meanwhile, the research mainly provides a framework about beach state studies, due to different beach states with different erosion patterns, which requires the need to strengthen the researches in this respect, in order to further enrich theoretical basis for a beach topography evolution, beach morphodynamic processes and beach erosion prevention in China. Key words: headland-bay beach, morphodynamic classifications, South China Citation: Yu Jitao, Ding Yuanting, Cheng Huangxin, Cai Lailiang, Chen Zishen. 2016. Wave-dominated, mesotidal headland-bay beach morphodynamic classsfications of the Shuidong Bay in South China. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 35(7): 87–95, doi: 10.1007/s13131-0160907-9
1 Introduction A beach morphodynamic classification refers to the morphodynamic characteristics of a beach system, including its beach and surf zone morphology and associated wave shoaling, surf and swash characteristics (Short, 1999), which is available in supplying a conceptual framework within which beach and surf zone environments can be identified and studied (Scott et al., 2
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