Sustainable Sunscreens: A Challenge Between Performance, Animal Testing Ban, and Human and Environmental Safety
The light and warmth of the sun are among the key parameters for the development of many higher life forms on Earth. As light intensity changes within seasons, organisms including mankind have evolved measures to regulate especially UV light intensity to
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Introduction How Are Sunscreens Composed What Makes a Substance Suitable to Be Used as UV Filter in Sunscreen Products Bioaccumulation Toxicity Toward the Environment Human Safety Assessment of UV Filters What Makes a Substance a Sustainable UV Filter to Be Used in a Sustainable Sunscreen Product 8 Conclusions References
Abstract The light and warmth of the sun are among the key parameters for the development of many higher life forms on Earth. As light intensity changes within seasons, organisms including mankind have evolved measures to regulate especially UV light intensity to the skin by additional pigmentation, hair, or even feathers. Nowadays, due to increased UV light intensity, change of human movement pattern, and leisure activities, additional sun protection is required. Besides clothes, sunscreen formulations are used to protect human skin from both UV A and UV B radiation. In modern sunscreens, the majority of UV filters are based on organic substances. Aromatic ring structures, high octanol, and low water solubility as well as appropriate chemical stability are needed to meet the criteria of high UV absorbance, sufficient oil solubility, and photostability during the application phase of the sunscreen product. Although naturally occurring substances may provide similar UV S. Pawlowski (*) Department of Product Safety, BASF SE, Ludwigshafen am Rhein, Germany e-mail: [email protected] M. Petersen-Thiery BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH, Monheim am Rhein, Germany e-mail: [email protected] Antonio Tovar-Sánchez, David Sánchez-Quiles, and Julián Blasco (eds.), Sunscreens in Coastal Ecosystems: Occurrence, Behavior, Effect and Risk, Hdb Env Chem, DOI 10.1007/698_2019_444, © Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2020
S. Pawlowski and M. Petersen-Thiery
absorbance, the lack of chemical stability typically prevents them from being used in such cosmetic products. The high log Pow (typically in the range of 3–6) implies that these substances may accumulate in organisms and thus may cause a threat to top predators. Existing experimentally derived data on various UV filters demonstrate that the bioaccumulation potential remains clearly below critical thresholds (i.e., bioconcentration factor (BCF) is 7 (m) 17.05 (c) 12.7 (m) 12.5 (c) 6.1 (m) 6.9 (c) >6 (m) 5.8 (c) 3,130
16,100
40/20 (m) 51/20 (m)
28.2
3.2
1,000
Soil Soil Soil Sediment
a
Environmental fate Aquatic toxicity Aquatic toxicity Environmental fate Environmental fate
Data requirement Short-term toxicity on aquatic invertebrates, preferably daphnids Growth inhibition study on aquatic plants Ready biodegradability Short-term toxicity on fish Activated sludge respiration inhibition test Hydrolysis as a function of pH Adsorption/desorption screening Inherent degradation Long-term toxicity on aquatic invertebrates, preferably daphnids Long-term toxicity on fish
OECD test guideline 202 201 or 222 301 series 203 208 111 121 302 series 211 210
Surface water degradation test Sediment simulation degradation tes
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