Spirulina platensis , Punica granatum peel, and moringa leaves extracts in cosmetic formulations: an integrated approach

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RESEARCH ARTICLE

Spirulina platensis, Punica granatum peel, and moringa leaves extracts in cosmetic formulations: an integrated approach of in vitro biological activities and acceptability studies Aida Karray 1 & Najeh Krayem 1 & Hajer Ben Saad 1 & Adel Sayari 1 Received: 4 May 2020 / Accepted: 5 October 2020 # Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature 2020

Abstract The selection of suitable natural raw materials in the cosmetic research and development is a key point, in order not only to obtain the expected results but also to avoid undesirable side effects. In this study, spirulina platensis, pomegranate (Punica granatum) peel, and moringa leaves alone were evaluated for anti-oxidant and antimicrobial properties. The chemical composition (moisture, dry matter, protein, lipid, and ash) and total polyphenols, flavonoids, and carotenoids content were evaluated in the three extracts. Total antioxidant capacity and ferric reducing activity power of extracts were also studied. Using agar diffusion method, the anti-Micrococcus luteus, Staphylococcus aureus, E. coli, Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella typhimurium, and Enterococus faecalis activities were measured. Interestingly, after combinations, pomegranate peel/spirulina (A), and moringa/spirulina (B): 25%/75% and 50%/50%, we have found that pomegranate peel can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations as an excellent preservative due to its exceptionally amount of phenolic compounds, powerful antioxidant activity, and its antibacterial activity against pathogenic strains. Keywords Organic cosmetics . Spirulina . Pomegranate peels . Moringa leaves

Introduction Cosmetic development has grown exponentially in recent years, thanks to scientific research and consumer demand. Unlike the classic cosmetics that use ingredients from petrochemicals, dyes, and synthetic preservatives, biological cosmetics are turning to more natural and organic ingredients. In this context, the goal of this project is to prepare a moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic cream based on blue-green micro-algae «spirulina» added with pomegranate peels or moringa leaves. Spirulina (Arthrospira platensis), a microscopic and filamentous cyanobacterium, has been recently recommended as a sustainable, highly nutritional and ecofriendly microalga (Kim et al. 2018). Spirulina is characterized by high protein Responsible Editor: Lotfi Aleya * Aida Karray [email protected] 1

Laboratoire de Biochimie et de Génie Enzymatique des Lipases, ENIS Route de Soukra, université de Sfax-Tunisia, Sfax, Tunisia

content (of about 50 to 70% of its dry weight). These proteins contain high biological value since they contain essential amino acids (Gutierrez-Salmeán et al. 2015). This micro algae contains also minerals (iron, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, manganese, copper, zinc, magnesium) trace elements, vitamins ( A, B1, B2, B6, B12 ,B5, E, and K) and chlorophyll, fiber, and phycocyanin (Kent et al. 2015). Spirulina contains potent antioxidants, free-radical scavengers (Marangoni et al. 2017)