Sustainable wool fabric pad dyeing using reactive dyes in silicone non-aqueous medium
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ORIGINAL PAPER
Sustainable wool fabric pad dyeing using reactive dyes in silicone non‑aqueous medium Wenzhao Cao1 · Liujun Pei1,2 · Hongjuan Zhang2 · Jiping Wang1,2 Received: 29 July 2020 / Accepted: 13 August 2020 © Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2020
Abstract Traditional dyeing usually consumes a large amount of water and chemicals, thus causing environmental problems. To alleviate these problems, non-aqueous dyeing technology appears as an alternative for improving dye fixation and reducing effluent discharge. Here we used silicone non-aqueous medium to dye a wool fabric. Continuous pad dyeing with reactive dyes was investigated. We optimized the type of penetrating agent, padder pressure and concentration of dye. Results show that the fixation and exhaustion reach 88% and 98%, respectively, which are higher than for water-based dyed samples. The rubbing fastness of the dyed wool fabric is improved 1–2 times, and the consumption of dye is reduced by 20% by comparison with acid or reactive exhaust dyeing. Other advantages include continuous salt-free dyeing, washing and drying; saving water and less water pollution. Keywords Salt-free · Wool fabric · Reactive dye · Pad dyeing · Silicone non-aqueous medium
Introduction Wool is as an important protein fiber that has received more attention due to its excellent quality and serviceability, such as excellent flexibility, high hydroscopicity, good warmth retention, satisfactory static and stain resistance, and tender luster (Zhao and He 2010; Long et al. 2013; Leila et al. 2016). Nowadays, wool fabrics are widely used to product various styles and high-quality garment materials in textile industry (Xu et al. 2006, 2007). As we all known, coloration of wool is of great significance to obtain different textile products. However, the scale layer of wool fiber is very hydrophobic, leading to low adsorption and diffusion of dyes on the wool fiber. As a result, it is difficult to achieve high fixation for wool fabric (Aluigi et al. 2007). Wool fabric is commonly dyed with acid dyes in traditional water bath. However, the wet rubbing fastness of dyed * Liujun Pei [email protected] 1
Engineering Research Center for Eco‑Dyeing and Finishing of Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, Zhejiang, China
Engineering Research Center for Clean Production of Textile Chemistry, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, Shanghai 201620, China
2
fabrics is poor because the bond between acid dye and wool fiber are mainly ionic bond. Furthermore, the dyeing temperature for wool fabric dyed with acid mordant dyes is close to the boiling temperature (Zheng et al. 2012; Mahbubul and Bhagvandas 2016). There are many reports about improving the penetration of dye into wool fabric, such as increase dyeing temperature or prolong dyeing time (Cao et al. 2014). However, it will inevitably lead to excessive energy consumption, large amount of heavy metal ions and wastewater discharge, and ultimately cause serious environmental pollution (Varadarajan and Venkatachalam
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